Tudo Bem means something like “What’s up?” If you are in Brazil, then there is only one cool answer to this question: thumbs up and: “Tudo bem!” That is because tudo bem also means: “Everything is OK!” So it goes like this: Tudo bem? Tudo bem! Everything is OK, brother. Couldn't be better.
The invitation4 January, 2010: the up-and-coming Brazilian climbing star Felipe Camargo had just sent his 3rd repeat of what was probably Brazil’s toughest boulder at that time: O dia santo (8b+) in the São Bento bouldering zone.
Two climbers from Spain, Dani Moreno and Eduard Marin Garcia, find themselves in Peru facing the most puzzling challenge of their lives on La Esfinge, or The Sphinx. And with a hilarious bet on the line, the stakes could not be any higher.
Edu Marin was sprinting up the last few metres to reach the belay when his partner, Dani Moreno, called up to him from 30 metres below. “Hey, Edu!” shouted Dani, grinning mischievously. “I have a riddle for you! If you get it, the beers are on me tonight! If you don’t, then you pay! So, what do you say?” “A riddle?” Edu shouted back, gasping for air. “You know [cough] that I love [wheeze] riddles. [Gasp] And beer!” "This is serious" said Dani. "OK, what goes on two legs in the morning, four legs at midday and no legs in the evening?
Originally, completing the Alpine Trilogy was not on her list, but now she is the first woman to have repeated all the Trilogy routes. Three routes that still count as the most difficult in the Alps. Three routes that up until 1994 only four men were able to write in their diaries.
The first ascenders are particularly impressed. "The Boulder Queen has rediscovered herself," says Beat Kammerlander. Thomas Huber agrees: "Babs is one of the greatest in the Alps." Stefan Glowacz goes even further, speculating that she is the protagonist in a new era: "There has been nobody like this since Lynn Hill.
High above the valley floor, appearing to float in the heavens, illuminated by a golden-pink alpine glow, elegantly curving its way towards the summit of Piz Bernina - Bianco Ridge has been created to be admired and then climbed. In other words: whoever sets eyes on the Bianco Ridge wants to get up there and do it.The challenge was doing the Bianco Ridge in winter and have one of the most awe-inspiring routes in the Alps all to ourselves - something that many dream of but only few manage to experience.And yet the strategy for the Bianco Ridge is so straightforward: go when nobody else is there. And that‘s exactly what Toni Mosshammer and David Kreiner did.
It is only in exceptional cases that you can enjoy the Bianco Ridge in solitude.
How do you prepare for a project/contest (info/training/nutrition)?I strategize and develop a program based on the nature of the project or competition. This usually means mixing a specific gym routine with outdoor climbing and of course eating good, whole foods. With outdoor projects, a huge part of the battle is learning the intricacies of the route/problem as quickly as possible. Time management is key.
What are your biggest accomplishments?First Ascent of The Kingdom 8C/V15Second Ascent of The Game 8C/V15First Ascent of Heritage 8B+/V142-Time US Sport Climbing National Champion.
What are your next goals (related to your sport)?Continue to travel and develop new areas around the world and apply my bouldering strengths to larger objectives.
Guido in the “Kerze” WI 6 (“The Candle”), one of the most beautiful ice routes in Tyrol. Looking even more attractive with a sugar coating of spindrift.
ETAPPE #1: PROLOG
Januar 2010. Guido Unterwurzacher und Christian „Hechei“ Hechenberger pilgern zum ersten Mal ins Pinnistal, jenes Eisklettermekka, das ihren Hunger nach gediegenen Linien stillen sollte. Immerhin, hier wurde Eisklettergeschichte geschrieben. Die Tiroler Kletterlegende Andi Orgler machte die im Stubai gelegene Pinnisalm mit Begehungen wie „Männer ohne Nerven“ (WI 5+ bzw.